Thursday, October 4, 2012

Welcome to Mexico



                I was one of about thirty young men standing around in a dark suit eating cold cereal out of a Styrofoam bowl with a plastic spoon. The building was unlike any I had seen before. Instead of doors, there were thick metal gates that let the sunlight and breeze in, keeping the room comfortably cool. There were a few potted ferns tucked away, and in the back was a room filled entirely with bunk beds and suitcases. A few young men were grouped against one of the walls, taking pictures in front of a glass plague that read “Missión México Veracruz.” Mission Mexico Veracruz, it meant. Our home for the next two years.
We Americans had been in the country for less than eighteen hours. We’d spent that time navigating customs, riding in the back of mission vans, eating what were apparently real tacos, listening to a bunch of mission rules and policies, sleeping, and just recently, eating breakfast. Now, we were waiting for our trainers to arrive and President Hansen to interview us. I’d gotten kind of annoyed at him the previous night for so vehemently telling us that iPods were in violation of mission rules. I’d studied the white rulebook a dozen times, and I knew for a fact that it didn’t say anything about iPods. Fortunately, I learned humility later.
Older missionaries started showing up while I was in the back room organizing my things. I could tell they were older because they were really tan and their shirts weren’t quite white anymore. I noticed they all had matching black bags. President Hansen had told us the night before that we could buy them for 50 or 60 pesos. That still sounded like a lot of money to me, so I decided to use my own bag.
My turn for the interview came. I walked into President Hansen’s office and sat down. He was a portly man with graying hair, a big bald spot, and a funny accent. He had a big desk at one end and a big white board at the other. The white board was covered with pictures of missionaries and several post-it notes. I only had to read a few of the names to realize that the post-its were all the new missionaries. President Hansen asked me how good my Spanish was compared to the other American greenies. Everyone, myself included, thought I was the best Spanish-speaker of the bunch, but I didn’t want to sound full of myself, so I said, “One of the best.”
President Hansen grabbed my post-it and put it next to a photo of a Mexican missionary. He told he his name was Elder Olvera and that we were going to have a baptism that week. I knew we were expected to baptize every week, so I figured that was a good way to start. He told me my area was called El Tejar and that it was “pure Mexico,” whatever that meant. Apparently it had something to do with people frying chickens all day.
We went outside, and President Hansen called my new companion over. My first thought was, “Wow, he’s short.” He barely came up to my chest, but he must have been really excited to see me, because he immediately gave me a big hug. President Hansen told him in Spanish that I could mostly follow that he should give me lots of opportunities to teach because I spoke the language. Elder Olvera asked me something, and I immediately regretted saying I was “one of the best.”
We gathered my things and left the mission office. It was about ten o’ clock, so it was still relatively cool. To someone who had spent the winter in Provo, however, it was warm. I followed Elder Olvera through the streets of Veracruz, knowing that if I ever lost sight of him, I would be completely and irredeemably lost. We eventually made it to a busy street and stopped at a bus stop. Elder Olvera explained that we would be taking a bus to our area and that he would pay. I wanted to tell him that I had my own money, but the noise and Spanish were enough to make me hold my tongue.
After several minutes, we got on a bus, a rickety white thing better described as a metal box with wheels and what could loosely be classified as seats. We went to the back of the bus and sat down. A second later, the bus took off, and I was immediately afraid for my life. The bus wove and twisted through traffic at breakneck speed, skidding to a halt when someone outside waved their hand. The first time, he hit the brakes so hard, one of my suitcases slid halfway down the bus. “Go get it,” Elder Olvera said. I, the pasty white American boy with MTC Spanish and a fear of strangers, walked sheepishly down the aisle to retrieve my suitcase while other passengers stared at me.
At one stop, a guy got on and started making an announcement. I had no idea how to react. All I could tell for sure was that he was selling something. I glanced at Elder Olvera, who was just staring blankly ahead, and decided the floor was suddenly the most interesting thing around.
The bus eventually left the city on a highway that ran mostly straight through the countryside. “Look outside,” my companion said. I did and was instantly assaulted by a wall of green. Palm trees pushed against the edge of the road between blocky concrete buildings. I saw people outside, but my brain was so overloaded with panic and sensory input that I didn’t notice what they were doing. In that moment, my only thought was, “This is awesome.” I was convinced my area was a town carved out of a tropical jungle. What’s cooler than that?
We finally reached our stop. I followed Elder Olvera off the bus, and after a short walk and a flight of stairs, we reached our apartment. We had a small living room, a small bedroom, a small bathroom, a small hallway, and a room with a water heater in the back. It was also incredibly dirty. Elder Olvera showed me my bed and where to hang my clothes. Then he showed me the area book and “The Wall,” a giant piece of blue butcher paper with post-its all over it. These post-its had names on them, too. He told me they were our investigators and recent converts. He then told me to unpack while he organized some things and that we’d be leaving for lunch soon.
Another wild bus ride later, we ended up at a tiny concrete hut that I never saw again. The sister had prepared tacos for us. It was a good meal, and I managed to thank her in by clumsy gringo Spanish. The rest of the day was a blur. I think Elder Olvera introduced me to some of the ward members and investigators.
Our last visit of the day was with a member family that lived near our apartment. They spoke English pretty well, but they told me they wouldn’t be speaking it very often so that I could practice my Spanish. They gave us something for dinner, and then it was back to our apartment to plan and sleep.
Eighteen weeks and nine baptisms later, I got transferred to another area with even more crazy bus drivers, a bigger apartment, and slightly better Spanish skills. I had my first and only non-Mexican companion – he was from Peru – and had learned that missionary work is, in fact, hard. In the back of my mind, though, I would always remember that first day in Mexico, the only day I ever thought I would die before it ended.